Burda 6-2009-120 Women’s Shorts – Entry 1 Pattern Analysis

On the sewing machine today is a pair of shorts that our exchange student asked me to help her make before school is out.  She chose this really cute design from the June 2009 magazine.

She says she’s never sewn anything in her life so I’ll take this opportunity to use this experience as a sew along.  If you want to make these too, and can get your hands on the pattern, just follow along.

This first entry is to analyze the pattern and develop our sewing order strategy.If you’ve ever made anything from a Burda magazine I think you’ll agree with me that you’ll need to not only read the instructions but also visualize what it is you are reading…as there are no diagrams.  You can follow along with the Burda instructions if you so choose but sometimes, take it from me, I think the good people at Burda must write the instructions while doing something else with their time.  For example…running say…between breaths and with each stride they holler out PRESS!, NO.. SEW…no WAIT..go back and attach the ZIPPER!…oh and did you look at the dress on page 8!?! Do that thing with the POCKETS!  Any questions?

So seriously…it’s a good idea to read the directions and write up your own workflow plan.

Pattern Analysis: Let’s take a look at the pattern, the photos, and read the instructions given in the Magazine.  As with any pattern, before cutting or sewing, it is a good idea to thoroughly review the steps of making a new pattern.

These shorts have a zipper, a button hole/button closure, tabs with a buckle on the sides for cinching in the fit, belt loops, on seam pockets, pleats, darts, cuffs and a faced waistband.  It’s quite a challenge for a first timer but seeing that I’m going to be there for the whole process and help in the tough areas there is plenty going to be learned in this project.

The Plan.

1.) Prepare the patten, fabric, and cut out the pattern pieces.  (Let me know if you need more explanation on this step)
2.) Start with the belt loops, tabs, buckle and the dart and pleat, as all of these work together in the design.  The dimensions for these pieces are in the instructions only.  There are no pattern pieces for these, as is typical with Burda, so be sure to read these directions carefully.  Pay attention to the grain or pattern direction when cutting as there is no explanation of this.  We are using a stripe fabric…so extra care will be needed to make sure the stripe is running in the correct direction.
3.) Insert the fly front zipper.
4.) Baste the remainder of the crotch/back seam, inside legs and size seams.  O An alternative to basting would be to just pin fit…pin the seams together and carefully try on without poking yourself.  As we get to this point in the process we’ll decide which method to use.
5.) Try the shorts on and check the fit.  Adjust for any fitting issues.  This needs to be done at this step because the pattern calls for on-seam pockets.  If the pattern is too big and/or too small you’ll need to adjust the side seam to take in or out.  Once a pocket is sewn into the side seam, adjustments become impossible.  It’s an extra step, but I think necessary when first making up a new pattern with this design feature.
6.) Complete the on-seam pockets.
7.) Attach waistband facing.
8.) Add a button and button hole closure.
9.) Turn up hem and secure cuffs.

That’s it.  That’s the plan.  Let’s get started.