Sewing, Sewing Patterns

Butterick B5495 View D – Testing, Testing

Hi Friends,

I’m going to put this in the ‘Just Testing’ category.  I don’t know why I thought this 100% cotton fabric would work up just beautifully for this pattern.   It’s not so bad but there is too much drape for this thick of a fabric. 

I made up a size 20 with no alterations, but did make a few alterations once I tried this on.  For one, it is too tight around the bust and I’m getting some serious pull across the upper back.  Not a great flattering look.


DSCF7883 I think a much more fluid fabric such as a silk knit or a poly knit that is much much thinner would have worked.  The amount of gathering with this thick cotton in the front gives too much fullness across the belly.  Already have enough fullness there!  If you know what I mean, and I don’t necessarily want to add to it.  Here’s the Front view:DSCF7884 The alterations I did after the fact was to raise the center front V.  I just sewed the center together about 3 inches, if I left it open it would have been too much cleavage and my bra would have been showing.  The other alteration I did was add an inch to the front gathering tab that wraps through the holes made by the bust dart.  I also cut it on the bias which did give it a little stretch.  Still not enough for me to feel 100% comfortable, I think I would need to add a little bit more ease along the side seams and maybe a bit of a flare towards the hip.  I also shortened the sleeves to a 3/4 length.  The photo does not show them hemmed yet but they will hit about mid lower-arm.

Oh well.  I was hoping this would have come out on the first round, don’t we all?!  So next time,  I’ll make some tweaks and switch to a thinner, stretchier knit and I’m sure this blouse will live up to it’s ‘Pattern of the Year’ reputation. 

If you have made this blouse, I’d love to hear how yours came out!


5 thoughts on “Butterick B5495 View D – Testing, Testing”

  1. To me — since wrinkles indicate the problem (!) My take is that you need a bigger size to accomodate the bust area. I checked the pattern and it indicated there were no provisions made for above waist adjustment.
    Because of the dolman sleeve you wouldn’t have to worry about the shoulder length, but you may have to watch the neck opening! I think it looks good from the front, but I might chuck this one if it were mine and start over.
    Another note: draping would not help the effect I see on the back so a more drapable fabric would not be the answer even though the drape effect might be more pleasing.
    You may have used the proper bust # but that did not make up for the “give” of your fabric. Today’s fashions all seem to go for the HUG effect and I suspect that is what this pattern wants too.
    Love, MOM


    1. Hmm. I could cut a 22 and that might cure it. There is room actually when the tab is not in the the slots. It may just need a longer bust dart or some room added to the side seam. You make some great points. Shall I bring it to Cali?


  2. I appreciate your willingness to share what has gone wrong, or perhaps a pattern design that just doesn’t work for you, or needs altering, or whatever… and not just a glowing example! It really helps to learn from one another! I like Mom’s response too! :O)


  3. Yes, bring it along with you. Also, see that green blouse on the side panel of your blog? It looks very similar. I think you said it was a Burda. Bring that pattern if you can find it. That blouse looked nice on you, maybe some of the design features can be interchanged? Hmm, just reread your note and you said you lengthened the front tab that pulls the fabric together under the bust? Try an even longer tab to see if that gets rid of the tummy fullness and also loosens the pulling from the back. To be honest… without seeing the pattern, I do not really understand what is going on.


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